Feb 15, 2017 Video showing the Elna Supermatic, with a very simple and quick overview of the machine. Oct 04, 2014 There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out. It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with 11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a. View and Download ELNA 2 SUPERMATIC 2 manual online. ELNA 2 SUPERMATIC 2 sewing machine pdf manual download. Also for: Supermatic. Schematic Diagram. ELNA Supermatic; ELNA SP 31. Sewing Machine Iron Sewing Machine Accessories Card Reader Media Converter.
Don't know why..please help. (Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)
this is my first post here. I've got a beige Elna Supermatic that I'm ready to throw on the ground. When I first got it, I knew the friction pulley needed to be replaced. So I've done that and the machine has been cleaned and oiled and made all pretty again.
My problem now is that the flywheel will not engage with the pulley. I think. The flywheel moves the needle just fine manually, but when I plug it in and press the knee bar, nothing is happening. When I take the flywheel off and press the knee bar, the shaft where the flywheel goes doesn't move.
Any ideas? It's driving me nuts, and this is my backup machine. I'm waiting on a new to me Bernina 530 and it can't get here soon enough!
Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give me!
April in TX
Skill: Intermediate
I know nothing of Elnas but it hints at an electrical problem.
Check all plugs and wiggle connections to see if something is crimped.
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So stupid question, here..
I remember (circa 1970) that my mom's machine's knee mechanism would be used to start/control speed/stop the needle.
When, in time, did the use of the knee gizmo evolve into being used to lift the presser foot?
(40 year gap there in my head! lol)
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2019:Juki TL-2010Q, Babylock Triumph Serger
2018: Babylock Solaris
2016: Bernina 720, 570qe (the wonderful 5.5mm, CB hook model)
2015: Pfaff Passport, Babylock Sashiko, Babylock Ovation Serger
2014: Bernina 880 Sterling Edition, Bernina 550(sold in 2016)
2012: Janome 7700 (sold in 2014) Babylock Ellisimo Gold (sold in 2015)
Granddaughter: Bernina 560
So stupid question, here..
I remember (circa 1970) that my mom's machine's knee mechanism would be used to start/control speed/stop the needle.
When, in time, did the use of the knee gizmo evolve into being used to lift the presser foot?
(40 year gap there in my head! lol)
there were treadle powered machines with a knee lift, which predate the use of power to run the machine. So it's the knee lift that, for a brief period, was misappropriated for running the machine.
How is the motor connected to the machine? A belt? A little rubber wheel? direct drive?
Does the machine make the right whiring noise when you press the not-pedal? Or is it dead silent? Make some strange noise?
There is a friction pulley that is connected to the motor that rests against the flywheel and turns it which in turn, moves the needlebar.
I had to replace the friction pulley, so that part is brand new. But this was happening before I replaced that part.
The motor sounds great, better since I replaced the rubber pulley part. There is a belt in there also, but it's in really great shape also.
Skill: Intermediate
Skill: Advanced
..I remember (circa 1970) that my mom's machine's knee mechanism would be used to start/control speed/stop the needle..When, in time, did the use of the knee gizmo evolve into being used to lift the presser foot?
Two totally different mechanisms here. Knee operated controllers on portable machines were one way to prevent a foot controller from getting lost, or from skidding across the floor when one was trying to sew. In cabinet mounted machines, often a foot control was inserted into a bracket in the cabinetry, and a knee operated lever acted on the controller buttons or pedal. With the controller part of the cabinet, it was one less thing on the floor to worry about when moving the cabinet, or cleaning underneath it. I think all makers have been using foot controllers for at least the past 40 yrs.
Knee operated presser foot lifters have been common on most industrial machines since the late 19th century. In industrial sewing, speed=money, and time/money can be saved by having a hands-free method to raise the foot and reposition the work. It was a concept slow to be adapted to home sewing, where speed is seldom a concern. Lots of features were common in industrial sewing decades before they appeared on home machines - reverse, zig-zag, buttonholes, serging..I think Bernina was the first to introduce knee lifts, maybe in the 1960s or 1970s on their TOL models. Other makers were very slow to embrace the idea, and some still might not offer it.
Jennifer in Calgary
I second Vireya's suggestion of the Elna Heirloom Yahoo group. I have 3 old Elnas and they've been able to help with several problems.
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Due to the amount of studies I have had recently, I had about a week were I did not work. When I went back in on a Saturday morning there were three machines awaiting me. One was a modern Brother overlocker, with no pedal (I'm yet to decide what I'm going to do with it), one was a Singer 5528, the second of them I've had in as many months and I keep meaning to devote a post to them and the third was in a very square metal case. There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out. It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with ~11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a few feet and the cover plates for the feed dogs. Half of the case forms the flat bed for the machine and the machine is a knee control (I love knee controls!). This machine is made in Switzerland and has all metal gears and parts, that I can see, the body is aluminium and consequently the machine is not all that heavy.
It wasn't until a week later I found time to take it home and look at it, there is no way I am selling this machine, I am BUYING it!
Firstly I removed the cover from the free arm and the throat-plate just sprung off, the bobbin loads from the back, I then removed the feed dogs so that I could get the bobbin holder and the hook apart, for ease of cleaning. The surfaces here have been de-rusted at some period in time as the chrome is less than shiny in parts.
To get the bobbin holder free from the hook there are two little screws (with little springs coiled around them) that need to be removed, they are directly opposite each other and the holes can be seen in the photograph below. Just be aware they are very springy and are very easy to lose if they spring away somewhere.
The next thing I did was remove the base of the machine (remove screws circled in red in image below) so I could see up the pillar, it is incredible. The motor and all the necessary electrical parts to control the speed of the machine through the knee control are mounted in there. The motor is geared into the machine much higher up the arm and cannot be seen in the following photographs.
Elna Supermatic Service Manual
Finally I checked and oiled all the moving parts under the faceplate and cam door. The faceplate cannot be opened unless the foot is down. The machine is threaded by passing the thread down the back of the faceplate, through the tension, from back to front, and then through the take-up lever and then as usual.
Elna Supermatic Sewing Machine Wiring Diagram System
Whilst I was oiling this machine I noticed it had a hard spot, I thought maybe something wasn't oiled properly but despite oiling all the usual spots the noise persisted. When I actually plugged the machine in and ran it the noise increased with the speed (as was to be expected) and the machine clunked dreadfully. It wasn't until a couple of days later I found enough time to go and look at it again.
Elna Supermatic 722010
Old Elna Sewing Machine Manuals
It came to my attention that the noise was not always in the same place in the machines rotation, this implied the motor was at fault. Eventually I disengaged the machine from the motor as for bobbin winding and the clunking continued, definitely the motor. With the base removed it became obvious that every time the machine clunked the entire motor was moving, which it definitely was not supposed to do. The problem was, how to see up the arm to see the gears? I did not have the appropriate circlip pliers to remove the handwheel and try and see in that way but eventually remember we had a camera for seeing in confined spaces. This worked and I can now say that to all intents and purposes it looks as if the gears up there are chipped and resulting in the machine not running smoothly. When I am finally finished for the year (another 4 weeks) I intend to go through the painstaking process of removing the motor and actually being able to personally see the extent of the damage. It is annoying to have such a beautiful machine, complete with accessories and be completely unable to use it!! At least I only have to pay $10 for it as it is completely unsaleable...!